Tag: gourmet


Weekend Gourmet: Staplehouse

Posted 17 April, 2016 by April @ The Steadfast Reader in Places, Topics

staplehouse
Staplehouse
: Atlanta, Georgia

Experience Date: April 16, 2016

Price: $85 per person for five courses, $40 additional for wine pairing (six pours) – includes gratuity

I read quite a few articles about Staplehouse before we went last night. It’s being hailed as one of Atlanta’s up and coming new restaurants. I have to agree for the most part. On the whole, the food itself was quite good. My main issue with the experience was how damn loud it was in there. Also, the atmosphere was a little more laid back than I felt like I was paying for.

But let’s talk about the food.

Amuse Bouche: Party for the mouth! Buttermilk curd on crackers, sushi, and foie gras balls. I don’t remember what those sticks were. Those balls are covered in hazelnuts and are absolutely heavenly. It was paired with a surprise sparkling wine, I think it was an Atmospheres out of Loire, France. It was light without being too sweet.

staplehouse amuse bouche

amuse bouche

1st: Excellent Alabama blue crab with fresh asparagus, radishes, and egg yolks. The dish was initially a little bland until I managed a bite that also included an egg yolk. The saltiness of the egg allowed for the flavor in the rest of the dish to come out and I was really impressed. It was paired with a gentil vin d’alsace, a white wine that was just the right balance.

staplehouse crab

blue crab, asparagus, radish, egg yolk
Wine: gentil vin d’alsace, MEYER-FONNÉ, alsace, france 2014

2nd: Absolutely one of my favorite courses. The homemade ravioli was so fresh it melted in my mouth and was cooked to perfection. The green garlic and snap peas on top definitely were the perfect added crunch to make the dish just right. It was paired with a pošip out of Croatia, (that’s a white wine). I’m not sure that I’ve ever had Croatian wine, but it was an excellent pairing to go with both the pasta and the vegetables.

staplehouse ravioli

ravioli, green garlic, koji, snap peas
Wine: pošip, ZLATAN, hvar, croatia 2012

3rd: Poached sablefish. I pointed out to my husband that we didn’t get fish forks or knives with this course.  Poached fish generally isn’t something I care for, but in my experience when you have a phenomenal chef, foods you don’t normally care for can be made magical. This did not happen for me with the poached sablefish. The lime was overwhelming in this dish and the texture of the fish was something akin to warm sushi. I like sushi. I like cooked fish. I don’t like that state in between. This course was a fail for me.

The wine pairing was decent, but didn’t save the course. It was a Napa Valley Chardonnay that was unremarkable. Not bad, but unremarkable.

staplehouse sablefish

sablefish, salami, lime, nasturtium
Wine: chardonnay, TRUCHARD, carneros, napa ca 2014

Bread Intermezzo: Potato sourdough with homemade salted thyme butter. Heavenly.

bread intermezzo!

bread intermezzo!

4th: Meat course! Steak. The cut is best described as the top of the ribeye. Just like the ravioli, it was cooked to melt in your mouth perfection and topped with whipped fat – which I know sounds a little iffy – but I promise you was absolutely delightful. The charred vegetables on the side here should not be overlooked as they were a perfect compliment in both flavor and texture. The wine was a nebbiolo (red). To me it was a little like a cabernet in how it was a bit heavier and more bold than I generally like in a red, but paired with the beef, it was just right.

staplehouse steak

bear creek beef, spring onions, english peas, smilax
Wine: nebbiolo, BORGOGNO, ‘no name’, piedmont, italy 2011

5th: Dessert. Strawberries and butter cake. Sounded a little dull on paper, but Staplehouse delivered strawberries in a couple of different ways. Homemade sorbet, fresh strawberries, and strawberry bark were presented. The cake itself was a bit dry and lackluster. The most notable thing for me about this course was that it was paired with a moscato, which I normally really dislike – but this moscato wasn’t cloyingly sweet and it was paired perfectly with the strawberries.

staplehouse dessert

strawberries, butter cake
Wine: moscato d’asti, vietti, piedmont, italy 2014

Chocolate Truffles: Made in house! Surprise!

Cheers! Home made chocolate truffles!

Cheers! Home made chocolate truffles!

Overall: More or less this was worth the money for me. Like I said before, I felt that the casualness of the venue and the staff to be a little bit underwhelming considering the price. However, I get the idea behind trying to get the millennials who are allegedly ‘less casual’ in their desire for dining experiences.

Personally, I don’t need the white tablecloths and the guys with crumb sweepers – though they are nice touches. But I do require a certain amount of formality based on the price. This isn’t to say that the staff wasn’t incredibly knowledgeable about what they were serving, but …. the price just makes me wish that it was a little quieter and the tiniest bit more formal.

Worth a trip.

So Reader, what do you think? Any amazing recommendations for me? Anyone else been to Staplehouse?

April @ The Steadfast Reader

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Weekend Cooking: Magical Truffle Salt

Posted 20 February, 2015 by April @ The Steadfast Reader in

Have you heard the good news? No, not Jesus. Truffle salt. 

Guys, I’m a salt lover by nature – I pretty much can be counted on to salt everything. I also love gourmet foods so a little truffle shavings on my gratin works just fine for me thank you very much.

You can get truffle salt at World Market and other high end grocery stores. Of course you can also get it through Amazon as well. A few weeks ago I made a very boring crockpot pork chop recipe, I added some truffle salt and holy poop on a stick, I could not stop eating those pork chops. 

What else? Popcorn, y’all. Instead of using Morton’s to salt your popcorn whip out that truffle salt and it turns popcorn into an amazing gourmet fancy treat. 

So far I’ve been using it willy-nilly on things that it seems like it might be good on, but pretty soon I’m going to check out some real recipes and report back. For now here are 15 Delicious Ways to Use Truffle Salt.

Hopefully I’ll remember to link this up to Weekend Cooking on Beth Fish Reads.

Do you have a favorite seasoning or spice, Reader? 

 

April @ The Steadfast Reader

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Weekend Gourmet: Alinea

Posted 15 December, 2013 by April @ The Steadfast Reader in

Alinea: Chicago, IL
Experience Date: 24 November 2013

We’re Weekend Cooking (or eating, as usual in my case) with Beth Fish Reads again!

If the menu looks more like an unintelligible work by a modern poet than it does something to select food from, that’s because it essentially is. Alinea is the only three Michelin Star restaurant (out of three stars) in Chicago. Though there are twenty four other one and two star restaurants in the city, Alinea holds the distinction of not only being the only three star Michelin restaurant in Chicago, it has been maintaining that sort of excellence for many years.

There is no ala carte at Alinea and reservations are done in a non-traditional way. Instead of making reservations you buy ‘tickets’ (well in advance). You pay online, upfront and there are no refunds (think of it as buying tickets to a concert). The ‘tickets’ can be transferred, but only through Alinea’s website. (Note: there are no physical tickets.) My only problem with this method is that tickets can only be reserved in multiples of two. I would have liked to go with my husband and sister, but we didn’t have a fourth. Too bad for my husband.

Back to the menu. When you enter Alinea you are putting yourself in the chef’s hands. A menu is posted on their website, but it’s not necessarily representative of what you will be served when you get there. They do take in dietary restrictions and the waitstaff and kitchen are very sensitive and accommodating to that.

Okay! The meal! Naturally, we chose to get the wine pairing.

Burning Oak : pumpkin, birch
Champagne Jean Lallement Verzenay – Grand Cru Brut NV

So, this was almost an amuse-bouche, just a bite, but it was still delightful. Light breading on the outside and inside there were flavors of pumpkin (but not overwhelmingly so) and cream. I hate that this picture came out so badly because it was presented and eaten directly off of a stick from an oak tree – complete with leaves still on it.

Char Roe: matsutake, apple, mustard



There was a wafer topped with the roe and matsutake mushroom. Underneath the wafer was a mustard ‘sauce’ (for lack of a better word.) I really enjoyed this course. The roe was just the perfect amount of savory and you could feel the ‘bubbles’ popping in your mouth, a sure sign that the roe you are consuming is fresh. The wafer and mustard puree gave for the perfect amount of balance with the texture.

Scallop: citrus aroma, fourteen textures
Hexamer ‘Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg-Hochsgewachs’ Riesling Nahe 2001 (White)


This was definitely the most spectacularly dramatic dish of the evening. The dish arrived with the clam shell that you see above closed and the mist (caused by dry ice). When you open up the clam shell you see your course inside of it. Additionally, the dry ice is used to kick up aromas from the lemon grass that surrounds the clam shell. The first think that I thought I smelled: Bath and Bodyworks Lemon Verbena.

The fourteen textures are pretty evident here, though too many of them seemed to be chewy for my taste. I would have liked more crunch.

Dungeness Crab: squash blossom, cardamom, saffron
Giovanna Madonia ‘Neblina’ Albana Secco, Romagna 2011



First. You should know that everything on this plate was edible. That’s up to and including the leaf and the fluff. The two mounds of orange are the dungeness crab and a cauliflower puree. The white spots that you see on the plate are salt!  infused with lavender.

I really enjoyed this course, the crab and cauliflower were reminiscent of the savoriness of foie gras. The fluff tasted like cotton candy.

Binchotan: tokyo inspiration
Takatenjin Junmai Daiginjo-shu ‘Soul of the Sensei’ Don Shuzo, Shizuoka-ken and Hitachino Nest White Ale, Kiuchi Brewery


There were four bites in this course. The fire was strictly for effect, we didn’t have to grill anything. Closest to the fire you’re seeing a piece of sushi grade tuna (raw) it was just the right amount of balance with texture and taste. It was not overly fishy, which was good because it might have overpowered the other flavors being offered.

Behind that was a piece of beef that was grilled to perfection and it completely melted in my mouth.

The next cube that you see is pork-belly which was delectable, and finally on the end you see a shrimp head. The waiter informed us just to pop the whole thing in our mouths. I’ll admit that I was a little hesitant, I grew up in the south and was always a little repulsed by sucking crawfish heads. In the end, however, I decided to trust the chef and popped that whole shrimpy-head into my mouth at once. It was an excellent contrast in texture, being crunchy, from the other three items on the plate.

This was definitely one of my favorite courses.

There were two beverages paired with this offering, a sake, which is a traditional Japanese rice wine, and a Japanese craft beer. I found the beer to be refreshing and it paired nicely. I don’t like sake, I never have, and while I tried it I learned that it still isn’t my cup of tea. (Or glass of wine.)

Veal Cheeks: lapsang souchong, pine, blackberry
Faugeres Domine Leon Barral 2010


Inspired by traditional Chinese barbecue, is what the waiter told us about this course. The veal sat on a bed of forbidden rice and a blackberry reduction topped with a pine froth and a rice cracker. The veal was excellent and the blackberries gave just the right amount of sweetness to enhance how savory the rest of they ingredients were.

The wine was interesting here. It had heavy overtones of well… manure. The sommelier warned us of this, though I think he had a fancy French word that roughly translated to ‘barnyard’. Honestly, I think I would have picked out the smell anywhere though.

Hot Potato: cold potato, black truffle, butter



Okay, what you’re looking at in this picture is a hand-crafted wax bowl filled with hot potato soup, suspended over it with a pin is a piece of cold (but cooked) potato topped with truffles. The waiter informed us that this was a ‘time sensitive’ dish. It rather reminded me of chugging an Irish Car Bomb. (For the uninitiated: 3/4 pint of Guinness, drop a shot of Irish whiskey and Bailey’s in it and chug. Ah, youth.)

So, being a rule follower, I pulled the pin and went for it! Perhaps I didn’t wait long enough for the temperatures of the two potatoes to even each other out but the soup burned my tongue a little and when I bit into the cold potato, it was almost unpleasantly cold. Still, truffles can fix almost anything and despite the temperature the tastes and textures were still superb.

Duck: …..?????……!!!!!!











Black Truffle: explosion, romaine, parmesan 

This course was definitely the most fun and my sister swears that she had a religious experience during it. First, what you’re seeing is duck prepared in five different ways on the white plate. On the black platter in the middle you’re seeing an assortment of toppings and additional flavors. Crazy, right?

Then the waiter told us the rules. Each piece of duck was to be consumed in two bites, with each bite we were to choose one topping. No sharing. Also, he didn’t tell us what anything on the platter was, so it was a crazy discovery game. He also explained that there was no way that we could use all the toppings, so we were just to go for it!

Go for it we did and what a result! Greens, nuts, chocolate, even a marshmallow greeted me on my fork. There was simply no way to know what the next bite was going to taste like, but each of the toppings complemented the duck perfectly.

Then, when I ran out of duck, I cheated and had a little sampling of other toppings I was curious about. It was tons of fun.

 



Another one of my favorite courses. When looking at the menu online before we went I was trying to figure out what flavor exactly ‘explosion’ was. Allow me to enlighten you. Again, we received instructions from the waiter. We were to put the entire dumpling in our mouth and seal our lips tight before biting down, otherwise we could look forward to an unholy mess.

I managed to do this with grace and dignity, my sister squirted delicious black truffle broth everywhere. Inside the dumpling was some concoction made from black truffles the topping of parmesan and romaine filled out both the flavors and the textures. I would have appreciated more than one of these.

Ginger: five other flavors
The Rare Wine Co. ‘Boston Bual’ – Special Reserve Madeira


The waiter described this as a transitional course, which makes sense as ginger is often used to clear the palate. What was neat about this, other than the presentation, was that the ginger was flavored from savory to sweet (left to right) so that upon eating the last piece of ginger I had been transported from my black truffle explosion and I was ready for my green apple balloon.

Balloon: helium, green apple


The famous green apple helium balloon. Everything that you see, including the balloon and the string were edible. To eat the balloon the waiter instructed us to ‘kiss’ the balloon and suck in as much air as possible. Being a total nerd I had to ask, “Like a dementor’s kiss?” I think that’s the reason my sister has that look on her face, she was totally humiliated.

Anyway, we did as instructed and after I had inhaled the helium my first words (naturally) were, “Expecto Patronum!” and I totally sounded like a chipmunk. Again, my sister was totally humiliated, that made it even more fun.

The balloon itself was delicious and a little reminiscent of the flavor of the outer part of a green apple Blow-Pop.

Corn: white chocolate, honey, mango
Chateau La Haute Borie Monbazillac 2010


So again, everything on this plate is edible. The ‘nest’ is made of white chocolate and underneath it was frozen pieces of delightfully sweet corn and mango. The little tower protruding from the nest was made of corn-silk that was fried(?) and made deliciously edible. The corn-silk gave the dish texture that it otherwise might have lacked.

Again, I had a problem with competing temperatures on this. I don’t like my ice-cream cold so it’s unsurprising that I had a hard time with some of the frozen pieces in this dish.

Milk Chocolate: påte sucrée, violet, hazelnut
Maculan ‘Torcolato’ Breganze 2009


This was like hibachi – for dessert! The rest of the meal there was no table cloth, but after we finished our corn course the waitstaff came and rolled out this grey vinyl table cloth. A chef came from the kitchen (though not the chef) and proceeded to prepare this little lovely presentation for us.

In the center is milk chocolate on top of a traditional graham cracker crust, the chef brought out kind of a tiny, bottomless springform pan and shaped the cake right there on the table. On top of it is whipped cream and those cracker looking things are actually sheets of sweetened salt. (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron) The white swirls on the table are more sweet cream, the beige lumps are hazelnut whipped cream (very stiff) and the purple and pink spots are syrup from violets. The neat thing about the violet syrup was the darker spots were made first, the chef then stirred his concoction and then the liquid was magically more pink!

This was delicious and fun to eat right off the table, but way too much for the end of the meal. I don’t think we even managed half of it.

Final Thoughts
Alinea was definitely an experience to remember and I found it throughly enjoyable. However, it was not cheap. The bill for the two of us including the wine pairings was more than $1,000. The sting of this was taken out a little as I paid for the dinner months in advance ($596.70 for two) and so when we got the bill at the end of the night we only had to pay for the wine pairing. That being said, I would not recommend Alinea to the casual foodie. You can have a comparable experience somewhere like Tru for half the price.

I also was mildly put off by the lack of a cheese course. I understand that Alinea specializes in ‘New American’ dining, so the traditional French food customs aren’t necessarily expected or needed, but damn it, I like my cheese course! I also found the wine pairings to be rather unremarkable.

The food was incredibly fun to eat and equally delicious. The waitstaff was amazing, professional, and totally on top of things. It’s definitely going into the annals of ‘meals of my life’.

I’m glad that I did it once, but I probably won’t be back. Next time I make it to Chicago however, I would like to try out their sister bar The Aviary for the five-course cocktail menu.

April @ The Steadfast Reader

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The Weekend Gourmet: Restaurant Review

Posted 16 November, 2013 by April @ The Steadfast Reader in

Tru: Chicago, Illinois
Experience Date: Friday, 15 November 2013, 8:00 PM

Tru has been ranked as a one (out of three) Michelin star restaurant for at least the past several years. When looking for decent gourmet eats, trying to find out where your Michelin star restaurants are is always an excellent place to start. Here’s the 2014 Michelin list for Chicago.

I’m joining in on Beth’s Weekend Cooking fun with this post!

Last night my husband and I decided to check out Tru. We were not disappointed. Maybe it’s been too long since we’ve taken the time to seek out a truly exceptional restaurant, our previous adopted city, St. Louis, didn’t offer much in the way of amazing restaurant experiences.

Anyway. The service was impeccable. Sometimes a little coordinated serving and pouring can go a long way to make the evening memorable, after all part of what you’re paying for at a restaurant like Tru is not just the food but the overall experience. The head waiter was knowledgable and friendly, we even discussed the past foie gras ban in Chicago and experiences he had with other restaurants and patrons. He was even friendly enough that after all the wine pairings were poured I had the nerve to ask him what the career path was to become a head waiter at an exceptional restaurant. (It turns out for him, it was networking.)

The atmosphere was elegant and even on a Friday night there were enough empty tables, or the tables were spread out strategically enough, to make the experience intimate. When we walked in through the front doors that are shrouded by heavy black curtains the carpet absorbed so much sound from the dining room it was almost a shock to come in off the road. This was a good thing. When I speak with people about some of my most memorable gourmet stories the tale of The French Room in Dallas usually comes up with the wonderful food but the terrible atmosphere because the whole place is marble, so it sounds like you’re in a high school cafeteria. I digress, the point is that the muted atmosphere inside of Tru was divine.

The dining room itself is tastefully decorated and fairly minimalist. The two(?) story windows are covered by sheer white curtains with the corners covered by black curtains. The table setting was a simple glass plate with the Tru emblem etched on the underside. I was particularly tickled with the waiter that brought by four napkins, two black and two white allowing me to select my color. It sounds silly, but I’d never experienced that before.

My husband and I decided on the abbreviated ‘Tru – experience’ which is seven courses instead of 11. I’m sure that they had an impressive wine list, but I usually prefer to get the wine pairings, which is what we did. Along with the seven courses we added a selection of 5 cheeses before the dessert course, but I’ll get to the cheese tray.

So the amuse-bouche was a tiny pastry with a touch of cheese on the inside, it was bland but perhaps this was intentional to clear the way for an amazing beginning.

#1: Pear + Fennel | Sorrel + Buttermilk | Foie Gras + Honeycrisp Apple
Wine Pairing: margin demi-sec champagne 1st cru nv

The first course consisted of three little bites. There was the pear and fennel ‘soup to sip’, sorrel ‘snow’ with a buttermilk gellee underneath it, and foie gras that was covered with a sweet apple froth.

I want to start with the sorrel snow. Even though it was described as snow I was surprised when it was cold because the sorrel looked like a lovely green moss, it was even garnished with tiny flowers. The taste reminded me of my terrible excursion into the green smoothie fad — if I had known what I was doing with the green smoothies. I found the floral tones to be a little overpowering for my taste, but overall enjoyed it.

The cold pear and fennel soup was a little bland as well, but still enjoyable. The little sesame stick garnish that was served with it added the texture and flavor needed to make it complete in addition to being a beautiful garnish.

The star of this course was the foie gras. Full disclosure: I love foie gras. But the apple froth on top with the sweetness of the honey made the pate underneath it taste more savory.

I found the demi-sec champagne to be a nice contrast because it was a little sweeter than the traditional brut-style champagne. This sweetness also highlighted the savory of the foie gras quite nicely.

#2: Light Sunchoke, Trout Roe, Chive
Wine Paring: Arietta on the White Keys, California 2011

This wins the prettiest dish of the night. The pureed sunchoke was served in a small bowl with a large rim, the chive was liquified and formed the outermost ring of the bowl the sunchoke puree was the color of a light cream, in the center was the trout roe, beautiful salmon pink bubbles.

Served alongside was tall silver vase filled with black and white sesame seeds with roasted artichoke ‘chips’ standing up out of the vase like flames. These chips added an additional layer of texture on top of the delightful bubble bursting of the roe on my tongue. I should have taken a picture of this one, but I really hate being ‘that guy’ in a nice place.

The wine was the disappointment here. I found the Arietta to be too acidic in general, I often drink wines that I normally wouldn’t and when paired with the food they’re fine, this one wasn’t redeemed by the food.

#3: Matsutake Mushroom Two Ways, Rosemary Roasted Veal Sweetbread, Ponzu
Wine Pairing: Sicily Etna i Custodi Rosso 2007

I think I always willfully forget what sweetbreads are. The matsutake mushroom grilled on top of the sweetbreads made for a great contrast of flavor and texture. There was something smoky that I tasted in this dish, and I liked it.

The wine came from the side of a volcano in Sicily, this type of soil made the wine different than a lot of the reds that I usually drink. It was bold without being overpowering the subtlety of the sweetbreads and mushrooms were brought out.

#4: Eastern Skate Wing, Apple + Celery, Black Truffle
Wine Pairing: Vouvray le Haut-Lieu Huet 2011

Fish course! The skate was prepared perfectly and the black truffle shavings on top added just enough flavor to make the whole dish pop. It fell apart on my fork and then melted in my mouth. The apple and celery added just enough sweetness to be offset by the dryness of the wine.

#5: Lamb Loin draped in Black Trumpet, Young Beets
Wine Pairing: Lalande-de-Pomerol Chateau Belles-Graves 2009

This was another course that was beautiful to look at. The lamb was done at a perfect rare-medium-rare it was topped with the black trumpet mushrooms and garnished with what looked like a nice little peppermint candy, it looked more like a radish than a beet but didn’t taste like much of anything so I can’t be sure. Also, this was served on a log, there was glass over the top of the wood, but there was bark and everything. Great presentation.

About beets. I don’t like them but I am always amazed at what can be done with them in the hands of a master chef. The sweetness of the beets offset the earthiness of the mushrooms and the lamb.

Artisanal Cheese Selection
Wine Pairing: J.K.’s Scrumpy Hard Cider

I love when gourmet places sometimes replace a wine pairing with a beer or cider, it’s often refreshing. This was the case with our cheese plate.

The selection of cheese was pretty wide, I’m going to estimate that they had about 15 – 18 cheeses to select from. The majority of the cheeses were cows-milk, but there were maybe 5 goat milk cheeses and one sheep’s milk cheese.

I tend to prefer stinkier, softer, cheeses with a lot of strong flavor. There were no shortages of that! It didn’t bother me, but there did seem to be no harder cheeses, also notably absent was any gouda.

#6: Passionate Marshmallow

The pre-dessert plate. This was also served on a log, with a stick. The intention was obviously to bring out a feeing of fall weather and camping, the marshmallow was lightly toasted on the outside and inside was the magic, it was a passion-fruit sorbet. Delectable. I wish I could have had ten more of these.

#7: Parsnip + Honey, Fig, Port Wine
Wine Pairing: Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia Salina 2010

Well… I liked the port that was served. This was another dish that had lovely presentation. The parsnip and honey ice-cream was drizzled over with a lovely red port sauce garnished with pretty purple figs on the side.

That being said, I did not like the ice-cream. Not here not there not anywhere. I think again it was too much floral and a ‘green’ taste. The parsnip far overpowered the honey. It was a sad ending to an otherwise nearly flawless meal.

Final Thoughts
Tru was a fantastic dining experience. I liked the fact that there was an option for an abbreviated seven course meal, or more accurately my husband and credit card were happy there was the option for the abbreviated meal. The cost was $115 for the meal, plus $85 for the wine pairing, the artisanal cheese were an additional $30. I would highly recommend this abbreviated option for those who don’t want to fork over the $158 for the entire Tru Experience (plus $125 for the wine pairing). Depending on your proclivity for cheeses you may want to skip the cheese plate, or there was also an option just to get three cheeses.

Definitely pencil this restaurant into your visit to Chicago. It should go without saying, but this is not a kid friendly restaurant, that is unless you’re Michael Jordan. 🙂

I have reservations for my sister and I at Alinea next Sunday, so keep an eye out for that review.

Cheers and Happy Eating!

Have you had an exceptional meal somewhere lately? Tell me about it!

April @ The Steadfast Reader

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